Fit
Fit is a metric which is very individual. Some clients require a tight fit, some prefer a looser fit. Outside of the basics, there are general points on sizing that may bring awareness of your own preferences.
I have a high/low instep/arch, will your shoes fit?
The base shoe last for both made to order (MTO) and made to design (MTD) has a moderate instep. However, specific patterns have flexibility to accommodate various instep types without significant on-foot shoe distortion.
For those with a low instep, it is generally recommended to choose an oxford pattern, where the panels that hold the laces, known as facings, are able to be drawn tighter across the instep.
Alternatively, a cork backed or foam insole lining can be inserted to raise the arch higher.
For those with a high instep, a derby pattern is more suitable. The facings are able to open wider, accommodating a higher instep.
The visual change in the facings being drawn tighter or opened wider is up to the taste of each client.
If your instep is very high or very low, then a modification to the last and pattern will be necessary, under the made to measure option.
To gauge your instep height, recall if you generally have challenges purchasing ready made, store bought footwear. If so, it should be mentioned during the initial consultation.
How do I know if your house shoe last fits me?
Despite popular belief, shoe length is not the more important determinant of shoe fit. The primary purpose of length is to determine the toe shape of the shoe last, or to cater for those with longer toes.
The most important determinant of shoe fit is the circumference around the ball of the foot, also known as the ball girth.
Your ball girth should fit to the circumference at the ball of the shoe last, with 1-2 mm of allowance for socks.
The second most important determinant of shoe fit is the length of the foot from heel to ball. The ball of your foot should be at the same location as the ball of the shoe.
You can find how to measure both foot girth and heel to ball length on YouTube. Alternatively, retail outlets that stock quality footwear are able to measure your foot with a specialized measuring tool, named a Brannock device.
Individual preference regarding tightness also factors into fit and sizing.
As an example, in Asia, footwear is taken on and off for entry into homes and some businesses. Due to this, a more loose fitting is generally preferred. This enables ease of shoe removal and subsequent wearing.
This contrasts with the majority of western fitting, where a tighter fit is usually preferred.
Feet often also react in various manners according to the individual. Swelling, seating or standing, time of day; these all play a part in fit and comfort, adding up to 5 mm to the circumference to the ball of the foot.
To know if the house shoe last is suitable for you, an initial consultation is best.
What is made to measure?
Made to measure (MTM) is an additional option available on MTO and MTD lines.
With this option chosen, the shoe last will be modified to fit the dimensions of your feet. Cork and leather are fixed in the various places that have the most difference between it and your foot shape.
The pattern chosen will also be modified to ensure that the design lines still flow in an aesthetic manner.
Whilst MTM will not provide a bespoke fit, it will bring the shoe last closer to the shape of your foot. Ultimately, the final commission will also be of closer fit.
A necessity for those with unique foot dimensions.
I bought a pair of shoes, why is my heel slipping out?
Correct sizing is the first step for properly fitted footwear. Assuming that sizing is correct, there is usually a break in period of a few weeks, as is the case with all shoes made entirely from leather.
During this period, your natural body heat is absorbed by your footwear. The interior leather heel counter then begins to mold around your foot shape, where, once complete, heel slip minimizes.
If in the rare case that it still does not, it is possible to be rectified through modifications to the interior lining at the heel of the shoe. This is with the addition of a thick piece of leather or a synthetic heel pad.
I have a wide foot, is the toe area too narrow for me?
The toe area, also known as the toe box is the area that houses the toes of the wearer.
This area of the house shoe last was designed to curve in after the toes, meaning at the widest point of the shoe, it will fit the widest point of the foot at the ball.
In the case of wider feet, it is possible to size 1 EUR size upwards to avoid pinching on the little toe area. This is recommended for those who normally wear EE and above widths.
Alternatively, a modification to the last and pattern is possible with a MTM addition.
Why are my shoes so uncomfortable?
During the break in period, your commission will not be comfortable. The footbed, or insole will be hard, and there will be a stiffness in your step when walking.
However, once broken in, the internal structure of your commission, consisting of side stiffeners and heel counter, will flex and soften.
At the point that your footprint has been imprinted onto the leather insole, you will find that your foot slides into your commission like a glove.
By this stage, your footwear will be uniquely yours.
Do you have woman's sizes?
MTO and MTD is available for both men and women.
The house shoe last is elegant in its forme, able to be used in a unisex capacity.
EUR sizes 37-41 are common woman's sizes, if smaller sizes are required, then please mention this in your consultation.
I wear size EUR 43, does your size 43 fit me?
Not necessarily.
Every shoe manufacturer uses a different sizing system for their shoe lasts. This, combined with different lasts of a same size having different widths, mean that there is no mechanism as a universal sizing system.
Your size simply gives an indication of where to begin sizing your foot. From there, detailed measurement, comfort and fit specifics are taken into account to find your correct size for a specific last shape.
What is your house last size?
Paris point sizing is used for the house last, with differences of 6.67 mm in length, 4.50 mm in foot girth and 3.60 mm heel to ball measurements between sizes.
For those measuring their foot to compare to the last, it is recommended to measure and compare the Heel to Ball measurement. This is the most important determinant of fit.
EUR size 37 to 46 are available, with larger and smaller sizes are available upon request.
For those who have an interest, there are various sizing standards used globally within the footwear manufacturing industry, a legacy item carried through decades of ma.
37
Length 255.60 mm
Ball Girth 221.00 mm
Heel to Ball 153.75
42
Length 288.66 mm
Ball Girth 243.50 mm
Heel to Ball 171.75
38
Length 262.02 mm
Ball Girth 225.50 mm
Heel to Ball 157.35 mm
43
Length 295.32 mm
Ball Girth 248.00 mm
Heel to Ball 175.35 mm
39
Length 268.68 mm
Ball Girth 230.00 mm
Heel to Ball 160.95 mm
44
Length 301.98 mm
Ball Girth 252.50 mm
Heel to Ball 178.95
40
Length 275.34 mm
Ball Girth 234.50 mm
Heel to Ball 164.55 mm
45
Length 308.64 mm
Ball Girth 257.00 mm
Heel to Ball 182.55
41
Length 282.00 mm
Ball Girth 239.00 mm
Heel to Ball 168.15
46
Length 315.30 mm
Ball Girth 261.50 mm
Heel to Ball 186.15 mm
Materials
Leather is the most important material for a shoemaker. As a natural material, it can take many different forms, with varying properties. This all adds to the uniqueness of your commission.
What is the source of your leather?
For MTO products, the house leather used for the upper is sourced from Italian tanneries. It is aniline chrome tanned box calf, full grain, medium stiffness with an even finish. It ages gracefully with minimal unsightly creasing.
For MTD products, or those that would like a unique leather on their MTO product, a variety of branded tanneries can be chosen from. These include Conceria 800, Badalassi Carlo, Maryam, La Perla Azzura amongst others.
The vegetable tanned leather hides of the house outsole are also sourced from Italy.
During the consultation phase, advice can be given on leather selection, depending on your style, taste and final use of your commission.
What is the difference between vegetable tanned and chrome tanned leather?
Vegetable tanned leather made from animal hides buried in a pit, usually with a curated selection of tree bark.
Over a period of years, the tree bark imparts various properties into the hides, which result in a leather with certain characteristics.
In the case of shoemaking, vegetable tanned leather can be shaped and molded and tooled with water, dyed, compressed and hardened with heat. This is required for the insole, side stiffeners, toe puff, heel counter, welt and outsole of a build.
Due to the tanning time required, vegetable tanned leather is costly. Core characteristics of vegetable tanned leather include its durability and the ability to change its appearance with time, in a process known as developing a patina.
Contrary to this, chrome tanned leather is tanned over a period of hours in large drums, using chromium salts. It results in a soft, supple leather, usually pre-dyed in a wide variety of colours. It is used for the upper and lining within shoemaking, displaying characteristics suitable for this purpose.
Neither chrome tanned leather or vegetable tanned leather are considered better or worse leathers. Both have complementary properties required in various processes within the handmade shoemaking process.
I bought a shoe at the shops, it says it is genuine leather. What is this?
The term leather is used very widely across the footwear industry.
Post the tanning process, a piece of leather can be up to 30-50 mm thick, depending on the animal it belonged to.
The highest quality leather is known as full grain leather. It consists of the outermost layer of the hide, which is the strongest layer, due to the presence of the grain of the skin. This can be between 1-2 mm thick, again depending on the animal.
After the full grain layer has been removed, the remaining leather layers are considered lower quality.
This is due to the absence of the outmost layer of the hide. Without this, the fibres of the leather have no grain to hold them together, resulting in inferior strength.
These lower layers of leather are coated in a glossy, manmade finish to replicate the look of the grain layer and used in lower quality footwear. Labelled as genuine leather, whilst it is leather, it is of a significantly reduced quality and strength.
When the lower layers of leather are not treated with a manmade finish, this is called suede. A furry, low strength, flexible form of leather, often used in casual footwear or as shoe lining.
seventeen & zero proudly uses only full grain leather. A quality reflected in both build and price.
What is fibreboard?
Fibreboard, also known as leatherboard, is another form of leather product.
Once the full grain layer of leather has been removed, the lower layers of leather are often blended, mixed with glue and other stabilizing chemicals, flattened, cut into sheets and sold as fibreboard or leatherboard. It can also be manufactured from individual leather scraps, offcuts and mismatched pieces.
Commonly mistaken as a quality leather product, fibreboard or leatherboard it is the leather equivalent of chipboard. A lower strength, lower cost leather product that used commonly within the footwear industry and advertised to the consumer as leather.
The majority of production manufactured footwear is dependent on the use of fibreboard and leatherboard. Generally used for the insole, heel counter and heel block, it is not easy for the untrained eye to recognize.
seventeen & zero proudly uses only full grain leather. To ensure a lifetime of wear for your commission.
Is there any difference between standard leather and branded leather?
From a day to day use perspective, no.
However for those that have an interest in a leather upper with added character, then you can choose from a branded tannery.
Each tannery has their own tanning specialties, leading to unique hide patterns and colour. Even from hide to hide within a single tannery, the results can be stunningly varied.
The type of leather chosen will also have an impact on how well a commission can be shined, so for those that find this as an important characteristic, you will be informed during the consultation process.
Choosing a branded tannery adds a layer of complexity and character to your footwear, as over time it will also age in a unique manner.
For the more adventurous client, ask about the off menu selection of leather hides.
Can you make cruelty free shoes?
It is possible to use vegan leather as an upper and lining in your commission.
Vegan leather is a man-made material made from plant based, synthetic material or agricultural waste.
The structural components in your build that require the properties of leather will need to be replaced with cardboard, plastic and other man-made materials.
Technically, it is possible to construct handmade footwear with vegan leather. Nonetheless, the end result may differ from the high standard of construction quality and longevity that all other commissions contain.
If you would like to explore cruelty free shoes, please mention this in your initial consultation.
Are your shoes sustainable?
The leather industry is a byproduct of the meat industry. Once animals are harvested for their meat, the skin and hides are used for the leather industry.
From this perspective, using discarded leather from the meat industry assists with a nose to tail principle.
Handmade footwear is more sustainable than production manufactured footwear. This is due to the quality of materials used, resulting in a pair of shoes able to be used for a lifetime.
Minimalism is a principle of the seventeen & zero shoemaker. As much yield as possible is used from each hide to be used on a build, resulting in minimized waste and cost through the supply chain.
I don't like the look of your shoes.
Shoemaking is a form of craftsmanship that can be categorised broadly as art.
And, just as any other form of art, can be subjective in nature.
For MTO commissions, a standard set of patterns are available for choice. If these are not to your taste, then you have freedom to design your own patterns under the MTD offering.
Construction
The handwelted, hand lasted and hand stitched method of shoemaking is the most traditional form within the craft. Understand more about what that really means.
Why should I choose 17&0 for my handmade shoes?
All competent shoemakers have the ability to construct quality hand lasted, hand welted and hand stitched footwear.
Outside of technical capability, the differentiation of seventeen & zero is somewhat personal to each client. They include.
1. The patterns and design flexibility within MTO and MTD options.
2. The offered leather selection, which are not usually seen in traditional dress shoes.
3. The style and philosophy of the maker.
Clients of seventeen & zero find that they resonate with one or more of these items, starting a relationship which lasts for many years.
Is there a difference between brands and their definition of handmade?
There is no standard for what defines a product as handmade. This also holds true for footwear.
A pair of human hands will always touch the product at some point during the manufacturing process.
Usually, handmade footwear can refer to any of three processes that are performed by hand.
1. The lasting of the leather, where the leather upper is pulled over the shoe last, taking on its shape.
2. The welting, where the insole is carved by hand and stitched together with a leather welt and the leather upper.
3. The stitching of the outsole, where the outsole is stitched to the welt.
Most manufactured shoes that are labelled handmade usually only refer to the welting process physically performed by a human.
The lasting and stitching processes are generally performed by machine.
It is also possible for footwear to be labelled as handmade, with neither hand lasting, welting or stitching being performed by hand.
seventeen & zero builds are hand lasted, hand welted and hand stitched.
What is the difference between hand lasted and machine lasted shoes?
Lasting is the process where the leather upper is pulled over the shoe last, allowing the leather to take on the shape of the last.
An indication of hand lasted footwear includes a flush and perpendicular edge at the toe, where the welt and leather upper meet.
In contrast, a machine lasted shoe may leave a gap between the edge of the toe and the welt, unable to be placed flush together.
Differences also occur as a result of the toe puff process, where a piece of leather is placed between the leather upper and lining to give structure to the toe area.
The toe puff is hand shaped sharp and flat on the bottom edges, to give a more pronounced shape and flush fit against the welt.
A manufactured shoe usually uses a plastic toe stiffener. It cannot be shaped or carved.
Why should I care about handmade?
You don't need to.
Handmade products have a small, dedicated and discerning set of clients, that clearly understand why they want a handmade product; the benefits, features and appeal.
Handmade is small scale, unique and exclusive.
For the client that values uniqueness, appreciates craftsmanship and has the desire to create a story with their footwear.
What is a goodyear welt construction and is it the same as hand welting?
Goodyear welt construction utilizes a canvas rib which is glued onto the insole. The leather upper and welt are sewn into this canvas rib. As the canvas rib used is stiff, it can add a a certain amount of initial inflexibility to a shoe.
The majority of high end dress footwear utilise a goodyear welt construction method. It can be performed by machine, is cost effective and time efficient.
By contrast, hand welting carves a rib, by hand, directly into the insole leather, eliminating the need to glue a canvas rib onto the insole.
The leather upper and welt are then directly sewn into this carved insole rib.
As the entire insole and carved rib construction are made from leather, it will break in and soften over time.
From a technical perspective, hand welting eliminates one component, the canvas rib, which can degrade and fail over the course of a lifetime.
Are traditional construction methods better than modern methods?
Whether made by machine or by hand, traditional construction methods, including goodyear welted and hand welted construction are time tested.
They originate from an age where people could only afford a single pair of shoes, which had to be durable, weather resilient and repairable.
These are the factors that are enabled through traditional construction methods, where as long as the leather upper is in good condition, a pair of shoes can be repaired and resoled indefinitely by unstitching and re-stitching the various components.
Traditional construction methods generally only use leather, which is natural, repairable and sustainable.
This contrasts against modern methods of construction that are primarily rubber, plastic and glue based. Without any stitching, glue will evaporate over time, with rubber outsoles peeling off and unable to be reglued with any strength.
Combined with poor quality leather uppers, it is more than likely a modern constructed shoe will need to be rebought many times over in the single lifetime of a traditionally constructed shoe.
Are your shoes glued together?
No.
All seventeen & zero footwear is stitched. The leather uppers are stitched by machine, the welt is stitched by hand and the outsole is stitched by hand.
Glue is only used to hold the individual pieces until they are sewn together. Once sewn, the glue becomes redundant in its relevance to the expected lifetime of the build.
I bought some shoes at the store, they look like they are stitched together.
Below a certain price point, it is not possible to purchase footwear that is stitched; whether by hand or machine.
The shoes that you bought, although having a visible stitch on the welt, is actually a fake stitch, on a fake welt, glued to the outsole.
To confirm this, attempt to peel away the welt from the shoe upper. If you can, the welt, and the stitching on top of it, is fake.
How can the result of a shoe made by hand be so different from a machine?
Handmade gives fine control to the maker throughout the process of building a commission.
The ability to alternate back and forth between processes, compared to a typical linear factory based process.
This creates an iterative feedback loop of fine tuning during a build.
In a practical example, when hand lasting a leather upper over the shoe last, a human pulling the leather is able to feel all the leather characteristics simultaneously. An iterative feedback loop is created.
Leather is a natural material. Stretch amount, stretch direction, stiffness, thickness, feel and reaction to being tooled can vary, depending on the part of the animal skin the leather is from.
To put this into a human context, some parts of skin may be tight from focused workout, others parts may be loose. Areas may have flaws in the skin tone, or even scars from daily life.
The same is true for an animal hide.
At each pull of leather by the shoemaker, there is a decision point; angle, strength and tightness of the pull can be modified, as the maker feels the leather react to the previous pull.
The maker can react to different parts of the animal skin used across the various pieces in the leather upper. Pulling harder or more gently as required. Feeling how close a piece of leather is to failure point after each pull.
In machine lasted footwear, these detailed intricacies are not possible.
A leather upper is pulled with the same force, disregarding each individual piece of leather it contains.
Because of this, the result may be a product where the leather is not as best fit as possible on the shoe; perhaps some parts of the upper were pulled too tightly, others not tight enough.
This very simplified example holds true across many of the other processes in the context of shoemaking.
For clients that want the very best attention to detail, handmade is the only option.
What is the difference between MTO and MTD?
Made to Order (MTO) provides the choice from a collection of standard patterns.
Within each of these patterns, various components of the build can be customized to your liking. These include toe and heel pattern choice, design elements, finishing options and leather selection.
Made to Design (MTD) provides a blank canvas. A completely unique design will be created, based on your vision shared with the Maker.
Both MTO and MTD use the house shoe last, which fits a majority of clients. If you would like a more tailored fit, the Made to Measure (MTM) option can be added to your commission.
With this, the shoe last will be modified to more closely fit your foot measurements.
How are bespoke shoes different compared to MTO or MTD?
The MTO and MTD products use the house shoe last. As it fits a majority of clients, it is reusable for those who are satisfied with the fit.
In contrast to this, a bespoke commission builds a shoe last for you. It is based on a complete set of measurements for your foot.
It is unique to you, and cannot be used for any other client. From your shoe last, your pattern can then be designed and build on.
Bespoke commands a time and skillset commitment which comes at a price.
For the most discerning of client.
A MTD commission can be considered a middle ground between bespoke and MTO. For those who would like to design their own pattern, yet do not require the specific fit requirements of a unique shoe last.
I've never ordered MTO before, will my design choices look good?
Many seventeen & zero clients are first time handmade footwear buyers.
The MTO patterns are timeless classics, able to be worn in a variety of occasions. During your consultation, you will be given advice on your toe and heel pattern choice, design elements, finishing options and leather selection.
A joint design effort, built from the creativity of your mind and the experience of the maker.
I have an idea for a MTD shoe, is it possible to make?
Send an enquiry to have a discussion with the maker. There you can discuss your vision and expectations, matching it with the construction possibility and skillset of the maker.
Many unusual builds have been designed in the past, with unique patterns encouraged.
What is the difference between waist types? Is beveled or straight better?
The waist refers to the area on the outsole between the heel block and the ball of the foot.
There are two options for choice in the MTO or MTD product.
1. A square waist. The stitches in the waist area are visible and the edge protrudes out from the side of the shoe. This results in a clean, sharp aesthetic.
2. A beveled waist. Also known as a blind waist, the stitches in the waist area are hidden.
This is achieved by rolling the leather outsole over the welt. It is technically more complex and results in a curved, elegant aesthetic, as the waist area is tucked underneath the side of the shoe. From a top view, the edge of the outsole at the waist will not be seen.
Each of these waist types can be chosen for application to the outside and inside of the shoe. i.e. the lateral and medial sides of the foot.
A popular option takes both options, a square waist on the lateral and beveled waist on the medial.
Neither beveled or straight waists are better or worse. Both have the function of securing the outsole to the rest of the shoe.
However, if the leather outsole needs to be replaced after a period of wear, it will take longer and be more costly to replace a beveled waist construction.
For MTD commissions, an additional waist choice is possible, the fiddleback waist.
This choice is in addition to the choice of a beveled or straight waist.
In this construction method, the underside of the waist area is built up with leather or cork and hand sculpted, producing a shape representing the curves of a fiddle. Purely aesthetic, there is no structural functionality to this addition.
An elegant option, usually only found on the most high end of formal footwear.
What is beading?
Beading is a thin strip of leather that is placed between the leather upper and leather lining. It adds an additional level of structure and aesthetic to dress footwear.
Beading comes standard on all MTO commissions.
For MTD commissions, there are three choice options for beading.
1. Standard beading, as described above. It is the most common type of beading in dress shoe construction.
2. French beading, where a thin strip of leather is rolled over the top edge of the leather upper. A casual form of beading, it results in more visual interest.
3. Upper beading, where the upper is rolled over itself and stitched underneath the lining.
Colour choice for all beading forms is available upon request.
Will my shoe look exactly the same my reference?
The beauty of handmade products is that they are made by hand, by a human.
Because of this, there will always be differences when comparing a handmade product to any references or machine made samples.
To the untrained eye, these are generally not noticeable.
The most common visual difference relates to the leather of the product. This may or may not match the sample or reference identically. As leather is a natural product, it is inevitable that it may have different markings or patterns from hide to hide.
During manufacture, care will be taken to match leather as closely as possible to any references that you may have mentioned during your consultation.
Should I keep my outsole leather natural or put a rubber half sole on it?
A core philosophy of seventeen & zero is that footwear must be practical.
So, it is suggested that all commissions be fitted with a 1.8 mm rubber half sole.
This is layered on top of the leather outsole between the toe and ball of the foot, providing extra grip in wet conditions. A full rubber final layer in the heel will also be matched to this.
For those considering a natural leather outsole without a rubber half sole, be aware that it will be slippery until scuffed and broken in.
A natural leather outsole, although durable, will not last as long as a rubber, and will also be more costly when replacement becomes necessary.
A rubber half sole can simply be removed and replaced as necessary, with minimal inconvenience and cost to you.
Why do my shoes beep when I go through metal detectors?
The choice of a metal shank in your commission can trigger metal detectors.
In the construction process, a shank is placed between the outsole and the insole, in order to provide extra support, stability and rigidity for your foot.
The choice of leather, wood or metal as a shank is available. A leather shank enables more flexibility, whilst wood is a middle ground between metal and leather. The default option for all MTO builds is a metal shank.
Price
The triangle of price, quality and time holds true in handmade shoemaking. Only two of the three can be achieved simultaneously.
Why are your shoes so expensive?
The beauty of handmade lies in the individuality.
Every commission built will have a unique character. From the hide of the animal, to the feel of the leather, to the curves of the build.
This comes at the cost of time; time taken to create your commission, time taken over the years to achieve this level of craftsmanship.
It takes 100 hours to create a commission which, with care, will last a lifetime. From a practicality perspective, a single pair is all that will ever be needed.
Individuality has a price that is personal to each client, respecting the time taken to achieve this.
Can you make your shoes cheaper?
Yes, it is possible.
The full grain leather upper will be replaced with plastic coated leather.
The sewn leather welt and leather outsole will be replaced with a glued rubber outsole.
The leather internal component structure will be replaced with plastic and fibreboard.
The pair of shoes made will eventually need to be rebought many times over during your lifetime.
Although constructing a commission in this manner is possible, it goes against the philosophy of the maker. To be minimalistic with quality materials; constructing a product with longevity and practicality in its use.
To that extent, seventeen & zero will not compromise on brand values.
Where do you ship and how much does it cost?
With a global client base, your commission can be shipped to a majority of locations.
As part of the consultation process, a range of shipping costs will be provided based on what is typical for your receiving location. Once a shipping option has been decided on, the actual amount will be payable in your final payment for your shoes.
Insured shipping via courier can cost between USD 30-100, depending on location.
Be aware that import duty and local taxes may be payable upon receipt at the destination.
For those ordering outside of Malaysia, the home studio of seventeen & zero, you are able to find a rough estimate from online calculators.
Use the following parameters for reference.
Shoebox size, 2kg weight, from Kuala Lumpur to your location.
Why are your prices in USD?
To cater for a global clientele, USD is used as the pricing basis of all seventeen & zero commissions.
As it is one of the most accepted and recognizable currencies in the world, it gives a reference point regardless of the country that each client resides in.
How can I pay if I don't have USD?
During the consultation phase, an agreed exchange rate to your local currency will be agreed upon, based on a public market rate.
When an invoice is issued to you, it will be priced in USD and converted to your local currency, using this exchange rate.
This local currency price can be referenced when paying via bank transfer to seventeen & zero.
What are the payment terms if I order from you?
After consultation and decision for purchase has been made, an invoice of 50% of the full price will be issued. This will also be given with a quotation for shipping after your shoes are completed.
Payment is to be made via bank transfer.
Once initial payment has been received, construction of your commission will begin.
The remaining 50% of the price plus shipping will be due after construction is complete. At this point, another invoice will be issued to you.
Once received, your commission will be shipped and tracking details provided.
Time
Handmade products belong to the category of slow living. A stark contrast to the current world of on-demand, next day, more-is-more society.
Why does it take so long to make a pair of shoes?
The construction of your commission is by hand. Hand lasted, hand welted and hand stitched.
These are a series of traditional processes which are proven to create an end product of high quality. Taking 100 hours per pair, there are some stages in the construction process which cannot be rushed.
As an example, commissions remain on the shoe last whilst being built for a minimum of 14 days. This is in order for the leather to relax and mold itself to the shape of the last.
Contrast this with a manufactured shoe, where shoes remain on the shoe last for 1-2 days.
During the handmade construction processes, time is taken to ensure that your shoes last a lifetime.
There are no shortcuts to achieve quality.
Why is there a waiting time for my order?
During the consultation process, an indication of available manufacturing slots will be given.
Depending on slot availability, there may be a queue until your build can begin.
After construction starts, it usually take between 8-12 weeks to complete each commission.
At times due to cancellations, availabilities in pre-booked manufacturing slots do occur. Sign up to the mailing list to be notified. In these cases, it is possible to fast track your commission.
Why don't you make more pairs of shoes per year?
Ensuring quality means that volume is willingly sacrificed.
Each commission is made by a single pair of hands, following traditional processes designed over hundreds of years.
The tradition, quality and attention to detail is appreciated by seventeen & zero clients.
Recrafting
A feature of high quality, handmade footwear is the reparability of the product. High quality materials can be repaired almost indefinitely. With care, your commission will last your lifetime.
When should my shoes be repaired?
For those who have natural leather outsoles without a rubber half sole, take note of your feeling underfoot. When the contours of the footpath can be felt through your commission, it is a sign that an outsole replacement will be required shortly.
You can also inspect your outsole visually. A replacement may be due is when the outsole is thinner at the ball of the foot and depressible with a finger.
For natural leather outsole replacement, it is best to send it back to seventeen & zero for recrafting.
For those who have a rubber half sole layered on their leather outsole, you will be able to visually inspect its condition.
If the rubber is torn, thin or has a hole in it, then a replacement is required.
For those with rubber as the top layer on their heel; once the rubber is wearing down close to the leather section of the heel, it will also need to be replaced.
A skilled cobbler will be able to replace a rubber half sole and rubber top heel layer at a minimal charge.
If the rubber top layer on the heel has not been replaced promptly and the leather heel is worn through, it is best to return your commission to seventeen & zero for recrafting.
This level of wear is not advisable, repairs will be time consuming and costly.
Do you do repairs on other brands of shoes?
Due to the volume of commissions accepted, there is no plan to commence repairs on other footwear brands at this time.
Repairs and recrafts on seventeen & zero footwear are accepted and encouraged.
In these cases, please make an enquiry.
How do I care for my shoes?
There are a few simple steps to take, that when followed, will allow your commission to last for a lifetime.
After each use, insert wooden shoe trees to absorb sweat and allow the leather to reshape. Cedar wood is best, however any wooden shoe tree is more beneficial than a plastic shoe tree.
Condition your commission at least once a month with leather conditioner. Research the conditioner that you choose, as some brands may discolour the leather upper.
For a mild conditioner, Bick 4 is recommended.
For a more heavy conditioner, Saphir renovateur is an industry standard option. Be cautious, it is likely to discolour your leather.
Prior to conditioning, brush your commission to remove any loose dirt or particles.
Apply a thumbnail sized amount of conditioner with a small horse, goat or boar hair brush. Alternatively, an old cotton t-shirt can be used. Place extra focus on areas of the leather upper which look particularly dry.
After conditioning, a vigourous brushing with the brush will remove excess conditioner and bring your shoes to a shine.
To restore colour to the leather upper, a shoe cream can be applied after conditioning. Saphir offers a variety of colours to choose from.
To ensure that you do not darken your leather, a colour choice one tone lighter than your commission is recommended.
For those who are more artistically inclined, creams can also be mixed and matched. Commissions with unusual coloured leather upper may choose an uncoloured cream.
The shoe cream application process follows the same method as the conditioning process.
Finally, for those wanting an elegant finish, a hard wax can be used to bring your commission to a mirror shine.
Saphir produces hard waxes in a variety of colours for this purpose.
Build up 10-15 layers of wax with your fingers on the toe and heel of your commission.
Using an old cotton t-shirt with a droplet of water, buff the wax gently. Repeat the buffing process until a mirror shine is achieved.
Achieving a mirror shine takes time and patience, approximately 20-30 minutes.
Werk 17
Enroll into the shoemaking academy held at the studio, Werk 17. Be guided through the seventeen & zero process to create your own pair of hand lasted, hand welted and hand stitched shoes, all whilst enjoying tropical Malaysia.
How can I enroll?
Send an enquiry and you will be contacted with the details. For those who would like more information, a call can be scheduled for a detailed discussion.
What is the environment like?
The learning environment is casual and relaxed. Participants work at their own pace. Individual guidance, direction and assistance will be given as natural progress is made through the shoemaking process.
Depending on your timing, there may be others in the studio also undertaking the shoemakers academy. Feel free to engage with them, as well as the maker.
What is the program curriculum?
On the first day, an overview of the seventeen & zero shoemaking process will be given. Basic leatherworking skills also will be assessed and if need be, refreshed or taught.
After this, you will progress straight into the shoemaking process, ranging from pattern making through to finishing. At the start of each stage, detailed instruction will be provided by the maker, with assistance given as you move your way through each build step.
Feel free to document your process with pictures or on social media.
Who are the instructors?
The shoemaker of seventeen & zero.
What do I need to bring?
Yourself.
All material and tools are provided by the studio. You will be taught how to use them in order to build your pair of shoes.
Do I need to commit for the recommended build time?
A minimum of 3 days studio time is required to be booked before starting the course. After this period, the minimum studio time required to be booked concurrently is 1 day.
This means that participants are able to take as long, or as little as required to complete their shoes. Usually it takes between 15-20 days to complete a full build.
What happens if I don't finish my shoes?
If participants decide to leave prior the completion of their build, what has been built to that point can be taken away. Any remaining unutilised studio time booked will be forfeit.
If you choose to take a break, return and complete your shoes at a later point, work-in-progress can stored at the studio.
All work-in-progress shoes are recycled after a storage time of 6 months without participants returning to continue their build.
Can I focus on specific parts of the process?
Yes you can. In that case, please enquire and mention this in your initial discussion.
For example, participants may wish to only learn about patternmaking or hand welting.
As studio time is booked accordingly, the cost to learn only specific processes will also be reduced.
How do I make payment for my studio time?
Once studio time has been finalized, initial payment can be made via bank transfer.
An invoice will be issued with payment details.
Additional studio time can be paid using the same method.
Where is the Werk 17 studio?
In Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia.
Upon enquiry, detailed location will be shared.
Kuala Lumpur is one of the most hidden capital cities in Southeast Asia.
Food options are world class, local population is friendly and the city is modern, with an Asian twist.
Most importantly, Kuala Lumpur is a useful starting point to visit the rest of Malaysia, with infrastructure and transportation options making it an affordable, accessible hub.
How much is living cost for 20 days in Malaysia?
On a per day basis, a budget of approximately USD 100-150 will be more than sufficient for a stay in Malaysia.
Major components are as follows (per day).
1. Food: USD 30-50. Food options are varied, from local food courts to international establishments.
2. Studio apartment: USD 50-80. Through booking.com, airbnb or agoda, a modern, furnished apartment can be rented for the duration of your stay.
3. Transport: USD 20-30. Grab is the Uber of Southeast Asia. Outside of typical working hours, it is a consistently cost effective method of getting around.
For participants needing any further advice, please do enquire.
Do you do corporate shoemaking events?
For corporate teambuilding or any other form of event, please enquire further.
A 0.5 or 1 day bespoke curriculum is available, with a focus on simplified shoemaking and leathercraft.
Everything else
If it doesn't fit in the above categories, you will most likely find it here. And if not, then simply enquire with your question.
What is your return policy?
Due to the unique nature of each commission, no returns are accepted.
If you have fitting challenges, then do reach out. There are various mechanisms possible to remedy these.
Where are your clients from?
Clients mostly originate from Europe and the United States, where there is an established footwear culture, educated in their understanding of quality. These are people who are either enthusiasts and collectors seeking unique commissions, or those that appreciate footwear able to last their lifetime.
For those ordering outside of Malaysia and unable to physically attend a fitting consultation, there is always some risk of incorrect sizing. However, this is significantly reduced for clients that generally do not have issues with off the shelf, manufactured footwear.
Upon consultation, a guided self-measurement of your foot will take place, accompanied by a detailed questionnaire. Together with the maker, these will all be compared to the house shoe last to find your best size fit. With this, the risk of an ill fitting commission is substantially mitigated.