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Anatomy of a shoe last

The last language of the shoemaker

And other related species

The shoe last follows the anatomy of the foot

Based upon terminology used in podiatry, much of the language used in the medical field has crossed into shoemaking over time.

This is particularly the case with the development of orthopedic footwear becoming increasingly common in the 20th century.

Lateral equals outer

The outer side of the foot is referred to as the lateral side.

Those with wide feet can have additional volume that runs between the girth line back towards the heel.

This is commonly adjusted for by choosing the made to measure option in your build.

 

Lateral side of a shoe last
Lateral side of a shoe last

Medial equals inner

The inner side of the foot is referred to as the medial side.

The most known characteristic on this side is the arch, or the gap between the foot and the ground plane.

High arch, low arch

Arch support is very personal from client to client.

Those with a low arch, known as a flat foot, can benefit from footwear with a high quality leather footbed, as it can give rigid arch support.

Leather can be sculpted and built to match an arch shape.

And, over time it will conform to the shape of the wearer's arch.

For those with particular arch requirements, this can be discussed during your initial consultation.

Medial side of a shoe last

Girth equals circumference

Ball girth, is measured around the ball of the foot.

That is, following a path joining from the bone connecting the big toe to the foot, under the foot, then up past the bone connecting the little toe to the foot and back to the start.

This circumference is usually the widest part of the foot, and is one of the most important measurements to determine your fit to a particular shoe last.

High instep, low instep

The instep is rise of the foot, from the centre of the ball girth line.

Those with a high instep tend to have a high arch.

Conversely, those with a low instep tend to have a low arch.

The house last has a moderate instep, fitting a wide variety of people.

However, made to measure can make adjustments to this as required.

Front of a shoe last
Toe area of a shoe last
Heel

The heel is an important area for a correct fit.

Narrow heels can cause heel slip, where each step can lead to the heel lifting out of the shoe.

With a leather internal structure, this can be mitigated, as the leather will mold to your heel shape over time.

Base

The ball of the foot is the widest part of the foot, measured under the foot from the bone joint of the big toe to the bone joint of the little toe.

It forms a part of the ball girth, or the circumference of the widest part of the foot.

Finally, the important measurement of fit to a particular shoe last, is the length from heel to the ball of the foot.

 

It is also measured on the underside of the foot.

Handmade derby and oxford shoe collection

Style is as important as fit

Find the pattern that represents you

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